Are you ready for a super easy project?
One night watching the incomparable Joanna Gaines I saw exactly what I needed to complete my newly rearranged, repainted living room. She had added very simple long picture ledges above a couch that completely pulled the room together. Just what I needed.
Ok...so I admit. I have spent a couple of nights, after checking in on my daughter as she sleeps, sitting in her rocker, admiring this little reading corner. I just love these shelves!!!
They were simple to make and cost very little. This was actually my first time working my jigsaw so there was a learning curve and I really had to sand the corners to get a smooth finish. I started out with 1/4" plywood. I wanted a larger cloud shape to be approximately 22" long and the smaller cloud (for the front) to be 16" long. To get good circles I used a Pyrex mixing bowl as a guide.
Once I got the basic shape I fiddled with it slightly to get the look that I wanted. Once I was satisfied, I got out my Ryobi jigsaw and cut out my shape.
I recently had a custom work request from a customer who wanted one of my trays in a distressed mint finish. Now, distressed can mean different things to different people so I set out making two different trays. Both mint green. Both distressed. However, two entirely different looks.
After I assembled the first tray I simply painted the tray in the mint green chalk paint that I had mixed together.
***You can find detailed instructions on how to make this easy tray here: http://www.sawdustchicks.com/home/decorative-wood-tray
To make this paint I added mint green acrylic paint to white chalk paint. Easy enough, right?
From here, I used my sander and just roughed up the finish to give it a subtle distressing.
TECHNIQUE 2: Vaseline
So...I wanted to try something else to see if I could give it a more in-your-face distressing. Before I assembled my base I randomly stained the boards. Once this dried, I assembled the base and then smeared a very thin layer of Vaseline over each of the areas that I stained.
Next, I painted over the whole base with the mint green chalk paint. Once this dried, I took a paper towel and wiped the Vaseline areas off.
Now I did have to clean it up a bit with additional paint and light sanding. But I was supper happy with how the second technique turned out.
Here's how it turned out!
I really love both trays, but if I'm honest, I'd choose the second one...Which one's your favorite?
We all have them...It doesn't make how much we try to hide them...They stare back at us each time we look in the mirror.
They make us cringe every time we look in the mirror...You know what I'm talking about.
Those ugly "builder-grade" bathroom mirrors.
So, what if I told you that we could cover them up once and for all? Shut up. What if I told you we could cover them up with less than 1 hour worth of work and for under $20? No Way.
In the amount of time it took to read that we could have been half-way done...Not really, but pretty close. So, let's do this.
STEP 1: Cutting
I needed a frame to cover my 37"x40" mirror. I decided to make it simple on my corners and do straight cuts. So I cut two 1x4s at 37" and two 1x4s at 33".
STEP 2: Build Frame
I attached the boards together using wood glue and pocket holes. The pocket holes hides the screws and makes the joint super strong.
STEP 3: Finishing
Stain. Paint. Whatever you want to do. In this case I stained the frame in Rust Oleum Kona. (You will need to stain both sides as you will be able to see a sliver of reflection through the mirror once it's attached.)
After this I added one coat of Varanthane 3X Polyuerethane. This stuff is great because one coat is the same as three so (let's do the math) it cuts your time down quite a bit. I gave it a light sanding with a high grit sanding blocks. This makes your finish nice and smooth.
STEP 4: Attach to mirror.
I didn't want anything messy or something that I'd need to YouTube how to use. So I simply used 3M Command Strips along the frame and attached... Voila! I love this option because it's easy, inexpensive and not permanent.
Less than an hour total of work, under $6 in wood and $12 in 3M Command Strips and I had this. Not too shabby!
This next project was really a culmination of three things:
Next, using my Ryobi Brad Nailer, I connected the 1x2's to the platform I put together. I used 1-1/2 inch brad nails. I could have gotten away with smaller ones though.
Once the box was put together I stained it Rust Oleum Kona.
I then painted a rough coat of Rust Oleum Aged Linen Chalk Paint on it. I have to admit I almost regretted this step as the Kona stain gave it such a beautiful color. Once the chalk paint dried, which it does very quickly, I took a sanding block over the whole thing to smooth it out and give it a distressed look. I finished with a quick coat of satin finish polyurethane.
I finished it off with vintage looking handles I found at Hobby Lobby.
Super easy and quick...Took about an hour to complete this. I have a feeling I'm going to enjoy all the decorating options this gives me. And I think Brett may too...He's actually the one who put this setup together as I was debating a few things!
Time for the boring wall above our bed in the master bedroom to go away. I still hold on to the dream of having a king size bed with a new frame with a cozy down comforter, lots of big fluffy pillows that you just sink into and say "ahhhh" as you drift off into blissful sleep....hmmm.....hello? I'm getting sidetracked....where was I? Oh yes, decor in the bedroom...so I never found anything that I wanted to commit money to...because of the dream. The big, king size dream! But, I finally figured out what I wanted to do and it'll cost me less than $10! Now, I can commit to that!
Here's the final product...Guys, this was also my first time doing a miter cut! If I can do it, you do it too!
I purchased three 1x4, 6 feet long. I cut them into 12" pieces. From here (and this is where the miter cut comes it) I cut both ends of each piece at a 45 degree angle. To keep every piece equal I cut right from the corner. Now, these angled cuts aren't the easiest if you don't have a legit miter saw. It's all about the tools, right?!? So I had to go back a couple of times to "even" things out. Hopefully, you don't have those issues
Each arrow is four pieces, so for my three I needed 12. I got into a miter cutting groove so I did mess up one without realizing it! Stay focused, people!!!
I then glued both sides together to form the arrow, clamped them and let them dry, again, at least two hours.
Once I had all pieces glued together I sanded all the edges and stained them with Rust Oleum Kona.
Once the stain dried I distressed it a bit with my sander and then applied a clear top coat.
I attached a clasp on the backs for hanging and that's it! Easy, right? I told you!
Now, this room is beginning to look more complete!
Remember the shelves I installed earlier? Well, since I didn't think ahead I didn't have any pictures on how I made the brackets for this. I just finished installing a second pair of shelves and was able to capture step by step how to get the industrial looking brackets.
I purchased 1" pipe fittings at Home Depot. I bought the bracket, 10" pipe and cap...total of four each. Also, get four 1-1/2 inch long black #10 wood screws. Make sure that these screw fit into your holes, nice and flush.
I then assembled them and spray painted them with Rust Oleum Multicolor Textured paint in Aged Iron. After this dried I spray painted them in a flat black.
Super easy, right?
The tricky part is hanging these bad boys. It's best if you can get the north and south hole in to a stud. That way you don't have to worry about using wall anchors, hitting electrical lines or drilling 1/4" holes into your HVAC duct work...I mean, not that anyone would do that right? And not while their husband was gone watching a football game? Or while their young children were playing nearby as sparks flew out of the hole? I mean, really...WHO WOULD DO THAT?!?
*This girl did...watch where you're drilling holes, people! Avoid outlets and make sure you know how to use a stud finder! My husband likes to point out that I know how to use a stud finder...Yes, honey...I get it...You're the stud...
**Next blog post? How to patch drywall holes!
Final step is to add your shelves. Again, I used 2x10 at 36" that I purchased from a local guy who sells old barn wood. I love them. They have cool notches and holes that add so much character. But you could easily just buy the boards and distress them yourself! I stained these in Minwax Early American. Use a preconditioner as it makes the stain go on nice and even.
Oh, and use latex gloves...trust me!
Now get building!
I'm super excited and so honored to be guest blogging over at Simply Lovely Lumber! Head over and check out my post explaining my popular herringbone console table. While you're there, browse a bit..Steph has so many great DIY tips and projects as well recipes, kids' crafts and household organization tips!
When I started my woodworking adventure my goal was to make my 2 1/2 year old son a "big boy" bed in the spring. I figured that I would need a good 6 months to get comfortable with tools and gain the confidence needed to start this project.
I'm now 2 months in and said, "Forget it! I'm doing it now!" I found a really great, super easy plan from Ana White. (I'm super obsessed with pretty much everything that she does! Check her out...You'll become a groupie too!)
She put together this plan based on a bed that one of the sisters at Shanty-2-Chic put together - another site that I'm pretty much obsessed with!
Here's my platform bed frame. I hope to have the headboard done in the next couple of weeks. Guys, total bill on the frame: $70! It would have been less than $50 but I used higher end wood on parts of it to get a smoother finish.
Here is the inspiration which would have cost me at least $500:
So let's begin!
This project started with me at Lowe's at 8pm on a Friday night. I finally purchased a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig. This has been on my wish list since the beginning but it frightened me a bit! I ended up going with the R3 which was about $40 versus the R4 which is closer to $125. A random man at Lowe's talked me into the R3 because of its versatility, mobility and the lower price point. This is the best purchase I have made since started my DIY journey...well, second best, after higher end screws!
The first night ended as most of my first nights do! Wine? Yes, please...
I was up at it early the next day. My husband took our toddler to Costco and our baby was sleeping so I was able to make all of my cuts without interruption! This is a glorious thing!
Next I put together the base of the frame using 2x6's and my new Kreg Jig! After watching a couple of YouTube videos and reading the manual I was fairly confident I could do it correctly. Let me tell you, this was super easy to use and I was quickly becoming the Pocket Hole Queen! I will be using this is every project that I do from now on!
Adjust according to your wood depth, clamp and drill! It's that easy!
Pocket Holes! Super easy and so clean looking. Not seeing my screws!
Once my base was built I dropped a 2x2 @ 75' down on each side 1-1/4". This creates the ledge which the slats will rest on. To connect I used wood glue and 2-1/2" screws. Next I added a 2x4 down the middle of the frame for added support.
The next step was to construct the top of the platform bed. Since I was using my new Kreg Jig, I constructed this seperately and then attached it to the base of my frame. I also used poplar for this, a higher quality wood. I chose to do this because I wanted to really ensure (1) a smooth finish since little fingers would be grabbing it and (2) I have found that it's easier to get straight boards then the lower priced lumber. But it is 3x the price of the stock pine so it added another $25 to the overall price.
From here it was a matter of attaching the top to the bottom. I used wood glue and self-countersinking trim screws. Using my clamps also helped keep everything in place as I attached it.
Final step was to add the legs. I used 2x4's @ 7" and cut them at a 10-ish degree. The "ish" is because I don't have a miter saw so I used my square to mark my lines and eyeballed it as I ran it through my Blade Runner! The cuts are neither straight or at a perfect 10 degrees! But who can tell?!?
I attached these with wood glue and 2-1/2" wood screws.
And there she is! End of Day One and I'm pretty pleased with how it's looking! Tomorrow we sand and stain!
First thing on Day Two I cut my remaining 1x3's to 53-1/2" to make up the slats...admittedly, I got a little "slat-happy!"
So, after sanding and sanding - filling in any holes with wood filler...and sanding some more, it was ready for stain. After I used a wood conditioner I put on one coat of Rust Oleum Kona and finished it with two coats of polyerethane.
LESSON: Watch where your ponytail lands as stain is not, I repeat NOT, easy to get out if it falls into the can of stain!
So pumped to get this up in his room!
And I'm not the only one!
Next up, the headboard...Hopefully, this will be done in the next couple of weeks!
I don't know if you've noticed this or not, but arrows are sort of a thing now. As is chalk paint. So, makes sense to play with both, right?!?
First off...chalk paint. Chalk paint is the best! It allows for you to do so many things with it. Seriously, the possibilities are endless...You can paint, distress, layer, stain and paint, wax...and it's so easy to do because you don't have to be perfect with each stroke, like you do painting.
At first I was a little intimidated with all the options so I started slow and easy! I took several scrap wood pieces that I had laying around. I had to do a little cutting to get the angles that I needed but for the most part, the pieces I had were perfect.
Next, I stained these a dark walnut. After these dried, I painted them with one layer of Rust Oleum Chalk paint in White Linen. Once this dried I took a 80 grit sanding block and gently sanded each piece all over.
I honestly had no idea what it would look like...To my surprise the finish came out to look exactly like old windows that I have from my parents' old barn. These windows are over 80 years old and have endured Michigan weather, farm animals, a fire...80 years worth of wear and tear. So to match the finish almost perfectly was pretty amazing...That's what I mean. This stuff is awesome!
So once my excitement over the finish subsided a bit I went about attaching these pieces together. It would have been easier with a brad nail gun but since that's still on my wish list* I connected these with wood glue...The arrow seems to be sturdy enough but I'm not throwing it about carelessly either.
The wonderful thing (or not so wonderful) about using scrap wood pieces is that sometimes things can be uneven...So, in order for the arrow to sit level it has to be pointing left. Shhh...no one will even know!
*I have since purchased a Ryobi Brad Nailer and my life has changed...seriously...CHA-ANGED!